
How an Epoxy Garage Floor Job Runs
A typical garage job starts with a walk-through, a moisture test and a crack map, then moves to grinding, repairs, the base coat, a flake or color broadcast and a topcoat. You get the walk-on and park-on times in writing, because they change with the product line and the temperature of the slab.
Attached and Detached Garage Coatings
An attached garage shares air with the house, so we seal the door to the living space, capture grinding dust at the machine with a vacuum and offer low-odor products. A detached garage gives more freedom on product choice, but it is usually colder, which pushes the cure schedule instead.
Moisture Testing a Garage Slab
We use an ASTM F2170 in-situ relative humidity probe or an ASTM F1869 calcium chloride test, with an ASTM D4263 plastic sheet test as a quick screen. The model building code’s IRC R506.2.3 exempts garages from the under-slab vapor retarder, so many garage slabs have nothing between the concrete and wet ground.
The probe test takes longer, since the holes have to equilibrate before a reading is taken, but it measures conditions inside the slab rather than at its surface. We record the result on the proposal, so you can see the number that chose your primer and base coat instead of taking our word for it.
Why a Newer House Is Not a Drier Garage
A garage poured ten years ago can test wetter than one poured in 1955, because the vapor retarder exemption and the soil underneath matter more than the build date. That is why we test the slab whatever year the house went up.
Cracks, Spalls and When to Replace the Slab
Hairline shrinkage cracks and small spalls are routed and filled with a rigid repair material before coating. A slab that has heaved, sunk or broken into loose pieces is a replacement job, and coating it would only hide the problem for a season.
Road Salt and the Bare Garage Slab
Calcium chloride and rock salt deicers soak into bare concrete, and repeated freeze-thaw cycles then pop the surface into scaling and pitting. A properly built coating keeps the brine on top where it can be squeegeed out instead of inside the concrete.
Coating a Garage in Cold Weather
Epoxy and polyaspartic products each have a minimum slab temperature and need a safe dew point spread at the surface to cure without amine blush or a weak bond. In an unheated garage in January, the honest answer is often to book the job for spring.
Hot Tire Pickup on Cheap Coatings
A warm tire softens a thin, poorly bonded coating, and when the car cools and pulls away it can lift the coating with it. A ground slab, a 100% solids epoxy base and a polyaspartic or polyurea topcoat are what keep a floor from peeling in tire-shaped patches.
Hot tire pickup is the most common complaint we hear about floors other people coated, and it nearly always traces back to the same short list: an etched slab, a thin water-based product and no real topcoat. Fixing it means grinding the failed coating off entirely, so it costs more than doing the floor right once.
Store-Bought Kits Versus a Built-Up Floor
Most retail kits are a thin, water-based coating rolled over an acid-etched slab. A professional floor is ground, repaired and built in several coats to a stated thickness, which is the difference between a one-season finish and a floor that handles tires and salt for years.
What Moves the Price of a Garage Floor
The size of the slab matters, but so do old paint or sealer that has to come off, the number of cracks, whether the slab needs a moisture-mitigation primer, and the choice of topcoat. We itemize each of those in the proposal so the total makes sense.